Is there a name for this puffy fabric applique like sweater?

[zoesam]

It's from a small boutique & was likely handmade.  Does this puffy fabric design have a name?  It's similar to appliques, but isn't really what we think of these days when we think of appliques.  TIA. 

[chapeaunoir]

I believe it's called trapunto applique.

[zoesam]

Oct 11, 2021 18:33:00 GMT chapeaunoir said:

I believe it's called trapunto applique.

That looks like it, thank you so much! 

ETA:  I've never heard of that before, so happy to learn! 

[jandsknight]

Trapunto is slit underneath and padding is stuffed in between the applique layer and the main fabric. So, the applique is filled and raised. In your photo it doesn't seem filled and raised.

[val2525]

Applique is applique. I doubt many buyers will know the details of specific types

[zoesam]

Oct 12, 2021 3:37:21 GMT jandsknight said:

Trapunto is slit underneath and padding is stuffed in between the applique layer and the main fabric. So, the applique is filled and raised. In your photo it doesn't seem filled and raised.

It's not. I guess I better do some more reading.  My understanding was that that's how it was done in the olden days, but I didn't read deeply.  Thanks, I'll look into it some more.  

[zoesam]

Oct 12, 2021 18:08:52 GMT val2525 said:

Applique is applique. I doubt many buyers will know the details of specific types

Except it's not applique.  It's far more detailed & labor-intensive than that, so I would like to learn & use the proper term. 

[chapeaunoir]

There is also an applique technique where the edges are turned under but instead of being actually sewn, they're sewn from the back of the garment and just through the folded under edge, which gives a 'raised' appearance as the edges are not stitched down. I don't know the name for that one but it's for the most part a hand laid applique.

I couldn't tell if the top one was stuffed or not for puffiness, but assumed it was. The bottom photo looks like that whatever the hand laid applique is.

ETA: Applique types can also change how a garment 'moves', so I do think it's a good idea to at least mention if they have an unusual style. 

[jandsknight]

The appliques are woven fabrics. They won't stretch like the knit fabric they're sewed onto. That may have caused the "puffy" look. Also they wouldn't have wanted to cut the knit fabric underneath to add stuffing because the knit would be hard to put back together to keep it from completely coming apart. Perhaps it's a true one of a kind work with no name for the technique except applique.

I would never attempt to sew woven fabric pieces on top of knit. It's even hard to attach a knitted piece on top of another knitted fabric because of the possible stretch differences. The stitches used to sew them on have to be loose, but not too loose, also.

[chapeaunoir]

I've seen woven appliques more than a few times on knits, though. Usually artsy type stuff which tends to be loosely fitting.

[zoesam]

Oct 12, 2021 19:29:07 GMT jandsknight said:

The appliques are woven fabrics. They won't stretch like the knit fabric they're sewed onto. That may have caused the "puffy" look. Also they wouldn't have wanted to cut the knit fabric underneath to add stuffing because the knit would be hard to put back together to keep it from completely coming apart. Perhaps it's a true one of a kind work with no name for the technique except applique.

I would never attempt to sew woven fabric pieces on top of knit. It's even hard to attach a knitted piece on top of another knitted fabric because of the possible stretch differences. The stitches used to sew them on have to be loose, but not too loose, also.

Thanks for all the info. It is a signed piece from an Aspen boutique, so ooak is certainly possible. I decided to just go with "trapunto like" since I don't think I'll be able to determine the exact way they did it.

Thanks everyone for the help!

[RetroMonde]

Trapunto isn't the right name for that embellishment technique. If you're trying to be accurate it's really a simple woven fabric applique attached with invisible stitching onto the surface of the knit sweater. Very cute detail! I think more shoppers may search for applique or embellished than trapunto but I could be wrong :-)

Here's an example of a vintage bed jacket I sold that used trapunto quilting as a detail. The fabric is printed or painted and then only that detail is stuffed (using various methods) between a the outer layer & lining, and then hand quilted around to keep the padding in place. The rest of the jacket was simply a silk outer fabric & lightweight silk lining.

 

[zoesam]

Oct 17, 2021 16:52:08 GMT RetroMonde said:

Trapunto isn't the right name for that embellishment technique. If you're trying to be accurate it's really a simple woven fabric applique attached with invisible stitching onto the surface of the knit sweater. Very cute detail! I think more shoppers may search for applique or embellished than trapunto but I could be wrong :-)

Here's an example of a vintage bed jacket I sold that used trapunto quilting as a detail. The fabric is printed or painted and then only that detail is stuffed (using various methods) between a the outer layer & lining, and then hand quilted around to keep the padding in place. The rest of the jacket was simply a silk outer fabric & lightweight silk lining.

 

Thank you so much!  I can see the difference here.  I will change it when I can.  It has an offer out on it right now, so I can't change it for 48 hours. 

[chapeaunoir]

Sorry. I'll stop answering these questions.

[RetroMonde]

Heck no Chap! My former OCD obsessive quilter was just rearing its head, lol. Its the same thing with some avid plant people who NEED to know and call common plants by their Latin name. No offense meant to anyone :-)

[zoesam]

Please don't chapeaunoir , it's fun to learn.